
Burgundy (Red)
Pinot Noir, grown on the gentle slopes of the Côte d'Or, produces arguably the greatest red wines of the world. It is here more than in any other region that the skill of the traditional merchant is tested - the grand châteaux of Bordeaux with all their size and fame give way to a plethora of small, mainly family owned, domaines where vineyard, cellar and office work is all undertaken by members of the family, with perhaps a handful of employees at certain times of year. Of course there are big firms too - the famous négociants of Beaune and Nuit St Georges (Bouchard Père et Fils and Faiveley for example) - but here too, the greatest wines come from their own vineyards.
Because of the Napoleonic inheritance laws, the pattern of vineyard ownership is constantly changing as land passes from generation to generation, and many domaines, though only a few hectares in size, may make as many as 15 or 20 different wines, often in miniscule quantities of a barrel or two. The system of labelling can also appear confusing as the wine takes its name from its appellation rather than (as in Bordeaux) from the producer. So although in the small print, the most important piece of information on a bottle of Burgundy is the name of the producer. In part for this reason, and in part because the wine is made from a single grape variety with therefore no possibility of adjusting blends where the strength of one variety can compensate for the weakness of another, the potential for disappointment is greater than is the case in Bordeaux.
When everything falls into place however, a truly great red Burgundy is a wonderful thing.
Red
Domaine Arnoux Lachaux
This outstanding 14.5 hectare estate is run by Pascal Lachaux and his son Charles. Charles has increasing influence over the winemaking, and since the 2012 vintage there has been a greater use of whole bunch pressing (in preference to 100% de-stemming). Father and son make a brilliant team, and the position of this domaine among the greats of the Côte de Nuits is assured.
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2011 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Clos des Corvées Pagets, Domaine Arnoux Lachaux x 62015-20216 Bottles£345.00£429.00
- "This is also exceptionally fresh though much more restrained with a beautifully well-layered nose of red berry fruit, earth and a hint of spice. There is a wonderfully seductive character to the rich and velvety middle weight flavors that manage to retain a fine sense of precision on the mouth coating and vibrant finish. This should mature gracefully and require the better part of a decade to be at its best. 90-92" Allen Meadows
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2012 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Procès, Domaine Arnoux Lachaux x 62015-20216 Bottles£300.00£375.00
- "An exceptionally fresh, pure and airy nose offers up notes of relatively elegant red currant aromas that enjoy added breadth in the form of floral, spice, earth and just enough wood influence to notice. There is good density and fine complexity to the medium weight flavors that possess lovely balance and length. This is sufficiently supple that it will be approachable young but the fine but dense tannins are such that this will require at least a decade of cellar time to realize its full potential. 90-92" Allen Meadows in Burghound
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2012 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine Arnoux Lachaux x 62016-20246 Bottles£645.00£789.00
- "Relatively heavy reduction renders the nose unreadable. There is excellent richness, size, weight and power to the medium weight plus flavors that brim with mouth coating dry extract that buffers well the firm tannic spine on the strikingly long finish. This is austere but not really rustic and should amply reward mid to long-term cellaring. 92-94" Allen Meadows in Burghound
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2013 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Procès, Domaine Arnoux Lachaux x 62016-20226 Bottles£300.00£375.00
- "A pretty and well-layered blend of both red and black pinot fruit is liberally laced with earth, spice and floral elements. The well-delineated and punchy middle weight flavors possess ample richness as well as very good volume before concluding in a slightly more powerful and complex finale. 89-92" Allen Meadows in Burghound
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2013 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Clos des Corvées Pagets, Domaine Arnoux Lachaux x 62017-20246 Bottles£345.00£429.00
- "There is excellent complexity to the blend of plum, earth, soft spice and game hints. There is very good richness and volume to the sleekly muscular middle weight flavors that possess just enough minerality to notice, all wrapped in a balanced and velvety finish that is supported by moderately firm tannins. This should also drink well young but reward up to a decade of bottle aging. 90-92" Allen Meadows in Burghound
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2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Procès, Domaine Arnoux Lachaux x 62017-20236 Bottles£300.00£375.00
- "Here the equally brooding nose is slightly more elegant with its cool and restrained nose of red currant, cassis, spice and earth scents that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. Like the Poisets this is notably rich with its relatively large-scaled flavors that also enjoy good density thanks to the abundant dry extract that also coats the palate and pushes the firmer supporting tannins to the background. Lovely. 90-92" Allen Meadows in Burghound
Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils
Bouchard Père et Fils is the largest vineyard owner of the Côte d'Or, with truly spectacular holdings in the Côte de Nuits and, more particularly, in the Côte de Beaune - where almost all the greatest sites are represented, all the way up to Chevalier and Montrachet. The firm was founded in 1731, and has had its headquarters in the Château de Beaune, with its magnificent 15th centuray cellars, since 1820. In 1995 the Bouchards were bought out by Joseph Henriot, whose family has been long-established in Champagne. The house benefitted from much needed investment in the years which followed - some 30 additional hectares of vineyards were bought and, in 2005, the ultra modern winery came into operation, giving Philippe Prost and his winemaking team all they need to make some of Burgundy's finest wines.
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2016 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils x 62019-20266 Bottles£361.50£450.00
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Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot
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2018 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot x 66 Bottles£95.00TBA
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Domaine Xavier Durand
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2018 Corton Rognet Grand Cru, Domaine Xavier Durand12 Bottles£840.00TBA
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Domaine Fontaine Gagnard
This outstanding domaine, producing among the very finest white wines of the Côte d’Or, is run by Céline Fontaine with the still very much active involvement of her parents Richard and Laurence – particularly since the birth of her daughter Lison on 2nd July 2014. Demand for these wines has become enormously strong in recent vintages, and production of the Grands Crus in particular is always very limited. The domaine produces wines of exceptional richness, finesse, and kaleidoscopic mineral complexity. While Fontaine's stellar reputation is based primarily on the immense quality of his whites, the domaine also produces very lovely reds, which are not only beautifully pure expressions of Pinot Noir but also very attractively priced.
More information can be found on the domaine's website: http://www.domaine-fontaine-gagnard.com/
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2012 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, Domaine Fontaine Gagnard2015-202112 Bottles£229.00£306.00
- Only 15 barrels made instead of the usual 25-30. Packed with lovely peppery fruit character.
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2013 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, Domaine Fontaine Gagnard2015-202012 Bottles£118.00£171.00
- From a single vineyard abutting the Chassagne appellation, planted half and half Pinot Noir and Gamay. Gorgeous strawberry scents, and lovely ripe red fruit on the palate. Brilliant value.
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2014 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, Domaine Fontaine Gagnard2017-202312 Bottles£229.00£306.00
- "The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge was taken from an older barrel, although readers should be aware that the final blend will have 25% new oak. It has a refined nose, simple but detailed with attractive red cherry and strawberry fruit. The palate is smooth and harmonious with slightly chalky tannin (just like the 2015 Bourgogne Rouge), but it shows commendable fleshiness for a red Chassagne on the finish. Very fine at this level. 87-89" Neal Martin in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate #222
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2015 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, Domaine Fontaine Gagnard2018-202412 Bottles£301.50£393.00
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2016 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, Domaine Fontaine Gagnard2019-202512 Bottles£303.00£396.00
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2017 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, Domaine Fontaine Gagnard2019-202412 Bottles£99.00£151.20
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2017 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, Domaine Fontaine Gagnard2020-202612 Bottles£303.00£396.00
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2018 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, Domaine Fontaine Gagnard2020-202412 Bottles£128.00£186.00
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2018 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Fontaine Gagnard2020-202412 Bottles£180.50£249.00
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2018 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, Domaine Fontaine Gagnard2021-202712 Bottles£303.00£396.00
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Domaine Gagnard Delagrange
Since the death of the wonderful Jacques Gagnard in July 2009, this domaine has been run by his widow Marie-Josèphe (daughter of Edmond Delagrange) and their grandson Marc-Antonin Blain. Over the last fifteen years or so, most of the vineyards have been handed on to their two daughters (Laurence, married to Richard Fontaine; and Claudine, married to Jean-Marc Blain). However, the domaine continues to produce outstanding, long-lived wines from the approximately 3 hectares it retains. These include a 1er Cru red Chassagne from vines planted in 1928, the year of Jacques' birth.
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2013 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge 1er Cru, Domaine Gagnard Delagrange2016-202212 Bottles£287.50£375.00
- Seriously intense fruit from these old vines, planted in 1928. This is as always outstanding at the price.
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2017 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge 1er Cru, Domaine Gagnard Delagrange2020-202612 Bottles£345.50£447.00
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2018 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge 1er Cru, Domaine Gagnard Delagrange2021-202712 Bottles£345.50£447.00
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Domaine Robert Groffier
One of the greatest domaines of the Côte de Nuits, the Groffiers (Robert, retired but still undertaking some of the vineyard work, his son Serge and grandson Nicolas) are producing some of the most sought-after wines of Burgundy. Although only about 7 hectares, the domaine boasts the largest holding of Chambolle’s greatest 1er Cru vineyard, Les Amoureuses, as well as a number of other very fine appellations. At the lower end of the appellation scale, the village (Gevrey) and regional (Bourgognes) wines are of absolutely outstanding quality. It is unusual for being in the village of Morey St Denis, but of owning no vines of the village. The Groffiers' wines are consistently outstanding, and rightly highly prized.
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2016 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Robert Groffier x 62019-20236 Bottles£179.50£231.00
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2017 Gevrey Chambertin Seuvrées, Domaine Robert Groffier x 62020-20266 Bottles£357.00£444.60
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2017 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix, Domaine Robert Groffier x 62021-20276 Bottles£765.00£934.20
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2017 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers, Domaine Robert Groffier x 62021-20276 Bottles£810.00£988.20
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2018 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, Domaine Robert Groffier x 62020-20256 Bottles£111.50£142.20
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2018 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Robert Groffier x 62021-20256 Bottles£177.00TBA
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Domaine Hudelot Noëllat
Charles van Canneyt, grandson of Alain Hudelot, runs this famous estate, with the very able assistance of Vincent Mugnier, who has been at the domaine since March 2005. Most of the vineyards come from the family of Alain's wife, née Noëllat, and while Alain remains a force to be reckoned with, so too does Madame Hudelot whose outward charm surely conceals an inner determination. Charles has however clearly been given full support in making a number of improvements to the vineyards since the 2008 harvest, and it is clear that under such dynamic leadership, the future of this great estate looks extremely bright.

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2013 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat x 62017-20236 Bottles£320.00£399.00
- "Reduction is sufficiently strong so as to render the nose impossible to evaluate. There is excellent size, weight and density to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a really lovely mouth feel thanks to the abundant dry extract as well as the quality of the tannins which are finer than usual. Even so the Nuits roots are in evidence as the lingering finish does display a touch of rusticity as well as an interesting hint of blood orange. This is well worth considering provided that you have at least a modicum of patience. 90-93" Allen Meadows in Burghound
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2014 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat2017-202312 Bottles£575.00£720.00
- "A markedly more elegant nose consists of cool and airy aromas of violets, black pinot fruit and a whisper of sandalwood. There is once again a sleek mouth feel to the refined medium weight and mineral-inflected flavors where the supporting tannins are riper and all wrapped in a moderately austere finale that delivers fine if not exceptional length. 88-91" Allen Meadows in Burghound
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2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat x 62018-20246 Bottles£320.00£399.00
- "A much more deeply pitched nose features plenty of earth, game and spice scents that add considerable breadth to the mostly dark berry fruit aromas. There is excellent mid-palate density to the attractively textured medium weight flavors that possess much better finishing depth on the balanced finish. 90-92" Allen Meadows in Burghound
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2017 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat2020-202412 Bottles£189.00£259.20
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2017 Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat2020-202512 Bottles£387.00£496.80
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2018 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat2021-202512 Bottles£220.50£297.00
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2018 Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat2021-202612 Bottles£470.50£597.00
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Domaine Maldant
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2017 Chorey Les Beaune Les Beaumonts, Domaine Jean-Pierre Maldant2020-202412 Bottles£204.00£277.20
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Domaine Jean-Pierre Maldant
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2017 Savigny Les Beaune, Domaine Jean-Pierre Maldant2020-202412 Bottles£225.00£302.40
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Domaine Maldant
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2018 Chorey Les Beaune Les Beaumonts, Domaine Jean-Pierre Maldant2021-202512 Bottles£245.50£327.00
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Domaine Jean-Marc Millot
Jean-Marc runs this fine estate with his wife Christine. They operate out of lovely old cellars in Nuits St Georges and work assiduously to produce pure, soft, mesmerising Burgundies with the accent firmly on the quality of the aromas and the fruit. The wines are very highly regarded.
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2013 Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Faulques, Domaine Jean-Marc Millot2016-202112 Bottles£225.00£300.00
- "A markedly earthy nose features notes of red and dark currant. There is better volume and punch to the equally rich and reasonably well-detailed flavors that possess a touch of rusticity on the moderately lingering finish. 86-89" Allen Meadows in Burghound
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2014 Côte de Nuits Villages, Domaine Jean-Marc Millot2017-202212 Bottles£197.50£267.00
- Lovely layered fruit, and supple tannins. Brilliant value for money.
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2018 Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Faulques, Domaine Jean-Marc Millot12 Bottles£297.00TBA
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2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru, Domaine Jean-Marc Millot x 66 Bottles£936.50£1,140.00
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Domaine Gérard Mouton
The Moutons are in Poncey, one of the small satellite villages of Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise, where Gérard Mouton has now been joined by his son Laurent who has taken over day to day managment of the domaine. They have 9 hectares of Pinot Noir which include 4 different Premier Cru sites, as well as 1 hectare of Chardonnay. The wines are aged in oak for 12 to 18 months prior to bottling, and represent some of the finest wines of this appellation, once known for providing the favoured wine of King Henry IV of France. More information on the domaine can be found on their website: http://www.domainemouton.com
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2011 Givry 1er Cru Clos Jus, Domaine Gérard Mouton2013-202112 Bottles£190.00£258.00
- Densely concentrated Pinot scents and flavours. Supple tannins and beautifully persistent fruit on the finish.
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2014 Les Fourneaux, Coteaux Bourguignons, Domaine Gérard Mouton2016-202012 Bottles£95.00£144.00
- Supple and fruit-driven Pinot Noir, this is exceptional value for money.
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2014 Givry 1er Cru Clos Charlé, Domaine Gérard Mouton2017-202112 Bottles£172.50£237.00
- Deep ruby colour. Intense Pinot scents. Ripe, succulent and wonderfully balanced on the palate. Long, lingering Pinot flavours supported by fine tannins.
Domaine Poulleau Père et Fils
This 7.3 hectare domaine with its old cellars in the centre of Volnay was founded by Gaston Poulleau. Gaston’s son Michel carried on his father’s work, expanding the vineyards when he married Jacqueline, whose family owned vines in Aloxe, Chorey and Corton Charlemagne. Today it is Michel and Jacqueline’s son Thierry who runs the domaine, with the help of his wife Florence. This is a classic small Burgundian domaine – owned and run with real dedication by its founding family.
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2013 Côte de Beaune Les Mondes Rondes, Domaine Poulleau Père et Fils2015-202112 Bottles£177.50£243.00
- Deep ruby colour. Seductive and ripe Pinot scents. Excellent fruit on the palate, with ripe, well integrated tannins, good balance and lovely length.
Domaine Sigaut
Hervé and Anne Sigaut run this 7 hectare domaine based in Chambolle Musigny where the Sigaut family built its cellars in 1847. Their approach combines the best of tradition, tempered with judicious modernity – some of the vines are worked by horse, others (where the terrain is more appropriate) by tractor; much of the treatment is carried out according to bio-dynamic principles; vinification is carried out in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks. Use of new wood is kept to a maximum of 1/3rd.

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2011 Morey St Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes, Domaine Sigaut2014-202112 Bottles£518.50£651.00
- Bursting with generous, ripe, dark fruit. Thickly textured, with very well integrated tannins.
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